Using topical agents for skin health restoration and preparation are the most essential, scientifically justified thing to do. It contribute to repair the skin and prevent some adverse reaction to different resurfacing skin treatments. Be aware that 80% of all cosmeceuticals currently available on the market contains active ingredients, but haven’t shown any scientifically proven benefit. Most of anti-aging products are useless because their active ingredient is ineffective, too low in concentration, or too large of a molecule to penetrate the skin. In the other hand, the patient should understand that products proved to be beneficial and therapeutic are not necessary pleasant to use. (Through looking, smelling and feeling good) The skin care professional should analyze the component ingredient of product and specifically match the patient’s need and particular skin type.
Key agents in topical
Essential agents in topical are fundamental for restoring skin health and must give at least one of the following features: therapeutic effect, intracellular activity, activation of cellular function, improvement of the barrier function, or anti-inflammatory benefit.
The main advantages essential agents should give to your skin:
- Enhance natural epidermal exfoliation
- Restore the balance of water, lipids and proteins
- Stabilize melanin for an even tone
- Ensure constant stimulation of collagen and elastin
- Ensure adequate hydration
- Minimize chronic inflammation and free radical generation
- Repair damaged DNA
For a longer use of pigment stabilizers or for patient who can’t tolerate hydroquinone, we prefer to use other skin-lightening option such a: Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid and Arbutin.
Peptides the new beauty gold standard
Peptide cosmeceuticals are one of the new, popular options to treat aging skin. There are three main categories of cosmeceutical peptides: signal peptides, neurotransmitter-affecting peptides and carrier peptides. Naturally found in the skin, the peptides encourage the production of collagen and elastin to maintain healthy skin cells, because they communicate a signal to repair themselves and function properly. Since the aging process causes a natural decline of peptides in the skin, synthetic versions found in serums and creams, help strengthen collagen and elastin levels.
|Peptides functions at the epidermal level
||Peptides functions at the dermal level
- Stimulates keratinocyte activity and growth
- Promotes epidermization
- Heals and repairs
- Stimulates fibroblasts
- Strengthens the extracellular
- Offers UVR protection
- Anti-inflammatory properties
- Boosts collagen production
- Optimizes the appearance and texture of the skin
Growth factors are proteins that works as chemical messengers between cells. They can act as a stimulator for cellular activities, such as cell multiplication and fibroblast proliferation. But how they work? Growth factors are absorbed by cells in the dermis and epidermis, «asking » the surrounding cells and tissues to stimulate regeneration with new production of elastin and collagen.
The benefits of vitamins in skin care
Vitamins have valid scientific data behind them and used topically works differently than those taken orally.
Vitamin A derivative (Tretinoin and Retinol)
Tretinoin, like Retinol are among the most common ingredient found in skin care products. Considered by many to be the gold standard in anti-aging, the vitamin A effectiveness, improve signs of aging, including fine lines, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and skin thickness. Vitamin A, has antioxidant properties and is a cell-communicating ingredients, so it helps the cell to function normally. We use vitamin A also to treat acne. Its exfoliation action will helps keep pores clean, so they don’t congest and lead to the formation of inflammation.
Vitamin B3 also known as niacinamide increase the production of ceramids and lipid acids in the skin, keeping it hydrated. Creating a barrier against free radical, this potent antioxidant have also found a significant improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, skin elasticity.
Not all products containing vitamin C are the same! The only bioavailable form of vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid, is also the unique form that provides the molecule’s antioxidant qualities. Although ester versions of vitamin C (such as magnesium ascorbyl, ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate) can’t be used in the body. The role of vitamin C in increasing collagen production and decreasing the inflammatory effects of sun damage is well recognized. The one we recommend at the clinic is formulated only with the highest grade pharmaceutical ingredients and offers a unique delivery system, the IDS “IntraDermal System”™ will ensure a maximum absorption and retention in the skin.
Vitamin D acts as an anti-inflammatory agent, and we uses it to brightening a dull-looking complexion, boosting skin’s elasticity and fighting acne.
Vitamin E or Tocopherol is the most abundant form of vitamin present in the skin. It carries natural sun-protecting capabilities by absorbing energy from UV light. It also protects the skin against environmental oxidative stress.
We use vitamin K for lightening dark circle under the eyes. Dark circles are the results of blood vessels accumulating under the eyes. When use topically, vitamin K, can help diminish their appearance by providing a vasoconstriction.
Sun Damage Protection
Sunscreen is a must-have for maintaining skin that looks youthful and healthy, and you should wear them even if it’s raining outside. Sunblocks provide two types of protection from UV light.
Chemical sunscreen: contains synthetic compounds that absorb UV rays before they cause damage. Usually, we recommend to use them every day, even if you don’t go outside. The UV rays penetrate in your office’s window or car windshield.
Physical sunscreen: contain fine particles of inert mineral such as combination of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide, which form a thin film on skin that reflects the sun’s rays. It’s optimal when you plan to stay outside all day long. Because of its rich formula, you can wear it alone, without any other moisturizer.
The ultimate guide for fabulous skin
Introducing 4 easy steps to your daily regimen for amazing skin.
- PREPARE: With a pharmaceutical grade gel cleanser to remove impurities, excess oils and makeup or with an antimicrobial cleanser formulated with 2% Salicylic Acid USP to remove surface impurities, clear and prevent new acne pimples. Don’t forget to use a toner or astringent to maintain skin’s PH balance.
- CORRECT: Choose an advanced cream or serum that contains essential agents. Look for products in regards of your age and skin type.
- MOISTURIZE: In regards of your skin type, choose a moisturizer that suits you. Even oily skin type needs hydration. It come in many forms such as masks, serums, sprays and cream, layer up for an intense effect!
- PROTECT: With sunscreen that provides UVA/UVB/UVC and SPF 30 (and higher) protection